Your Private Beach in Portugal

By Liz Dodder

There is still a place in Western Europe where you can find yourself on a wild secluded beach with water as blue as the Caribbean. Your private lagoon is situated between small quaint villages where you can find freshly grilled fish and succulent crustaceans among other seafood delicacies for just a few American dollars. You can sample excellent local wines and ports with the mix of locals in the village bars before making your way to your impeccably clean room for the night, with windows open to the sound of the surf. The only place where looking west across the Atlantic Ocean and longing for loved ones lost as sea is a national pastime. Portugal welcomes you.

The strip of coastline just south of Lisbon is one of the most beautiful in the world. Pine tree forests mixed with eucalyptus give way to grassy headlands dotted with aloe plants, semi-arid foliage, and desert flowers. Cliffs as high as 100-feet drop down to impossibly blue waters, lapping lazily in small private coves that seem to be untouched except for the sea life found in the rocky terrain. All this is just minutes away from the quaint and clean villages bustling with local life. The village of Zambujeira do Mar, about 160 miles south of Lisbon, has some of the most dramatic cliffs and beaches in the area, and the drive there is fantastic.

Rent a car from the Lisbon airport and drive south on the main freeway to Setubal. This is a scruffy port town overlooking the wide, beautiful mouth of the river Sado. There is a car ferry here that will take you to Troia, cutting time driving on inland roads and giving you a view of dolphins in the bay as you cross. This area is rich in wildlife, and is the nesting ground and stopping place for more than 200 species of birds migrating each year between Northern Europe and Africa. Once you reach Setubal, drive south on the main seaside road, watching carefully for great views of stork colonies. As you drive through the small towns in this area, look up to find huge stork nests perched on the tops of the buildings, church steeples and even smokestacks. This is also a large rice-producing region; look for the miles of beautifully networked rice fields.

Once you pass Sines, the stretches of golden beaches broken up by picturesque rocks begin on your right. You can stop anywhere along the road to get out of the car, enjoy the view and watch for surfers. Porto Covo is a good place to stop for restrooms and refreshment, or you can continue to Vila Nova de Milfontes for a beach side meal. Another town built on a river mouth, this sleepy resort is known for its white sandy beaches lining both sides of the river and the ocean. The castle that once protected the area from Moroccan and Algerian pirates has been restored and now serves as an inn. There is also a beautiful church, the Algreja Matriz, along the medieval streets in the middle of town. If you drive right to the end of town you'll find several perfect beach restaurants, with the best one down a long wooden walkway to the water. These cafés serve freshly caught fish which they grill on a huge barbeque. Sausage, salami, and sheep cheese with local-style bread are absolutely delicious here. Eat these dishes with generous glasses of vinho verde, a local white wine that is crisp and sharp with a lean finish.

Then head south to Zambujeira do Mar, a small fishing village which has been converted to a simple seaside resort. This is simple vacationing at its best. One of the greatest things to do here is nothing at all; just enjoy the quietness, the nature and the sea. There are plenty of small hotels and rooms for rent; just ask around at the small shops and restaurants. Most of the businesses in town are owned by two women, Maria Rosa and Rita. Both of these canny women will give you a great value at any of their restaurants or hotels.

Before you head out to the beach, visit the farmers’ market on the street just north of the city center. The beaches do not have any cafés, bars, or food; they are completely natural and untouched. Pick up some fruit and other snacks and a beach umbrella and you can stay all day.

There is a local beach just on the edge of town, which can be reached by following the road south from the town center to the parking area. All the beaches in Portugal are extremely clean and serve well for families as well as singles and couples. Portugal’s beaches are full of families playing games, including plenty of sun-seeking Germans, and you may even see some in the nude. There are plenty more beaches up and down the coast, and if you don’t mind walking, you can find one that is all yours. Drive south until you find a walking trail heading across the headlands and down to the ocean. At the end of the trail will be a steep descent down to the water, so climb carefully. A huge reward awaits you at the bottom, your own private blue lagoon.

The cliffs create a natural cove protected from boats, nearby houses and other people. This private beach offers nothing but lying on the warm sand, wading out in the blue water, walking among the rocks, and swimming in the crystal clear sea. Here it feels that the rest of the world has disappeared. Nude sun-bathing is permitted, and because it is your own beach, you make the rules. Just don’t forget the sunscreen!

Before sunset, head back to town for a sunset drink and pick one of the bars on the cliff’s edge, along the road from the town beach. Order local wine or port, then relax, listen to the Fado or Brazilian music and personally witness the pink sun kiss the horizon against the dark blue water. Fado is a Portuguese music specialty, sounding like the sirens of Greek myths and singing of the sea and of longing. In Portugal, it seems as if time stands still.

Next, amble around town to find a place for dinner. Follow your nose, as all the restaurants emit the enticing smell of fresh grilled fish like sargus, sole and rock-bass of the best quality, just pulled off the fishing boats that day. Just around the corner from the waterfront are several small, intimate bars and pubs with outdoor seating. Even with the entire town out for a nightcap, talking animatedly, the tone is nevertheless very quiet and the sound of the surf encompasses everything about the town.

Portugal’s beaches offer you an intimate beach vacation of times gone by. This is the slow, deliberate life of the coastal fisherman, and he is happy to share his bounty with you. Beautiful scenery, unspoiled blue waters, fresh food, friendly people and the ocean are all you need. And the lack of televisions, cell phones and city life doesn’t hurt one bit.

Links:

Alentejo, Portugal
http://www.portugal.org/tourism/regions4.shtml

Costa Azul Region
http://www.costa-azul.rts.pt/index_i.html

Town Information
http://www.cm-odemira.pt/